I decided to take a break from sewing as I am looking for inspiration for a new project. So, my friend recently broke a bracelet she "borrowed" from me. Well that sounds like a good enough excuse to pick up my pliers and make some maille.
This is the first row of the weave. By itself, this weave is called "Helm Chain" but it has properties that allow it to be expanded in to a sheet.
A detail shot of how the weave looks like.
A picture after completing the second row. In this form, it is now known as "Conundrum".
A detail shot of how the two rows of Helm Chain are connected.
The bracelet is done!
A better view of the weave.
Here is one of those so called "art shots". A picture of the bracelet draped on an empty sewing spool.
For more information about making maille (I am a stickler in how it should be referred to, I hate when it is called chain mail) you can check out M.A.I.L. - Maille Artisans International League.
As for the stats regarding the bracelet, it is a Conundrum bracelet made with 20 gauge 3/16" nickel silver rings with 20 gauge 1/8" stainless steel connectors. All rings were purchased from The Ring Lord (my favorite place to order rings).
Monday, March 24, 2008
Thursday, March 20, 2008
Button Vest (Of button holes...)
Although this entry is short, the actual sewing involved is monotonous. It does not help that the sewing machine I am using is also being annoying with its button hole stitch. Ah oh well, at last count I have 30 button holes to sew (12 at each side and 3 at each shoulder). On to the pictures.
I mark the approximate location of the button holes. Here I have spaced them out 1 inch from each other.
After I am satisfied with how evenly spaced they are, I will measure the button hole length as compared to the actual size of the button. As a rule of estimate, your button hole should be the diameter of the button plus double its width.
Button hole stitch with the sewing machine. The process will vary with each sewing machine so refer to your manual.
Look forward to buttons in my next entry!
I mark the approximate location of the button holes. Here I have spaced them out 1 inch from each other.
After I am satisfied with how evenly spaced they are, I will measure the button hole length as compared to the actual size of the button. As a rule of estimate, your button hole should be the diameter of the button plus double its width.
Button hole stitch with the sewing machine. The process will vary with each sewing machine so refer to your manual.
Look forward to buttons in my next entry!
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Button Vest (Almost there...)
My vest is nearly done. The majority of the body is finished, all that is left is the detailing. Anyhow, instead of boring you with details we'll just shoot on to the sewing.
The liner is pinned together at the center facing and is being sewn together.
Here is a better picture of pressing the seam open so that it lays flat.
I have pinned the sides together and will sew them together. Just like the front panels, right sides are facing inwards and I did not sew up the bottom hem.
Again I am trimming the seams and clipping the curves of the armseye and neck hole to reduce bulk. One side was left unclipped for the picture so you can see the difference it makes.
Turn the back panel inside out and press again.
Pin the bottom hem in preparation for the sewing it closed.
A detail shot of how the three panels will fit together.
Repeat the process of sewing a topstitch that is 1/8 of an inch away from the edge.
The bottom seam is completed.
Here is all three panels laid out. Almost finished!
It's pretty obvious that the three panels will not fit together. Normally on vest, you would sew the side and shoulder seams together and line the entire piece at once. To replace the side seams, I'll be using, for lack of a better word, fabric "tabs" so that I can button the side and shoulder seams together.
Here's a shot of the "tabs" being cut out. Just like the panels, there's the outer shell and the liner.
A detail shot of one of the shoulder "tabs".
A quick shot of sewing the "tab" together.
An approximate placement of the "tab" before I press it with an iron, pin it in place, and sew it.
Sewing the "tab" on to the front shoulder edge.
It might of been better to have taken pictures of it. But, the process is rather repetitive. Do the same process with the other should edge and for the side seams. On my vest, I left about 6 inches along the bottom free so that they can form slits to allow for the movement of my legs.
Next installment: Buttons and buttonholes... Stay tuned!
The liner is pinned together at the center facing and is being sewn together.
Here is a better picture of pressing the seam open so that it lays flat.
I have pinned the sides together and will sew them together. Just like the front panels, right sides are facing inwards and I did not sew up the bottom hem.
Again I am trimming the seams and clipping the curves of the armseye and neck hole to reduce bulk. One side was left unclipped for the picture so you can see the difference it makes.
Turn the back panel inside out and press again.
Pin the bottom hem in preparation for the sewing it closed.
A detail shot of how the three panels will fit together.
Repeat the process of sewing a topstitch that is 1/8 of an inch away from the edge.
The bottom seam is completed.
Here is all three panels laid out. Almost finished!
It's pretty obvious that the three panels will not fit together. Normally on vest, you would sew the side and shoulder seams together and line the entire piece at once. To replace the side seams, I'll be using, for lack of a better word, fabric "tabs" so that I can button the side and shoulder seams together.
Here's a shot of the "tabs" being cut out. Just like the panels, there's the outer shell and the liner.
A detail shot of one of the shoulder "tabs".
A quick shot of sewing the "tab" together.
An approximate placement of the "tab" before I press it with an iron, pin it in place, and sew it.
Sewing the "tab" on to the front shoulder edge.
It might of been better to have taken pictures of it. But, the process is rather repetitive. Do the same process with the other should edge and for the side seams. On my vest, I left about 6 inches along the bottom free so that they can form slits to allow for the movement of my legs.
Next installment: Buttons and buttonholes... Stay tuned!
Tuesday, March 18, 2008
An Amusing Diversion
I Am A: True Neutral Half-Elf Wizard/Sorcerer (2nd/2nd Level)
Ability Scores:
Strength-13
Dexterity-14
Constitution-12
Intelligence-15
Wisdom-15
Charisma-13
Alignment:
True Neutral A true neutral character does what seems to be a good idea. He doesn't feel strongly one way or the other when it comes to good vs. evil or law vs. chaos. Most true neutral characters exhibit a lack of conviction or bias rather than a commitment to neutrality. Such a character thinks of good as better than evil after all, he would rather have good neighbors and rulers than evil ones. Still, he's not personally committed to upholding good in any abstract or universal way. Some true neutral characters, on the other hand, commit themselves philosophically to neutrality. They see good, evil, law, and chaos as prejudices and dangerous extremes. They advocate the middle way of neutrality as the best, most balanced road in the long run. True neutral is the best alignment you can be because it means you act naturally, without prejudice or compulsion. However, true neutral can be a dangerous alignment because it represents apathy, indifference, and a lack of conviction.
Race:
Half-Elves have the curiosity and ambition for their human parent and the refined senses and love of nature of their elven parent, although they are outsiders among both cultures. To humans, half-elves are paler, fairer and smoother-skinned than their human parents, but their actual skin tones and other details vary just as human features do. Half-elves tend to have green, elven eyes. They live to about 180.
Primary Class:
Wizards are arcane spellcasters who depend on intensive study to create their magic. To wizards, magic is not a talent but a difficult, rewarding art. When they are prepared for battle, wizards can use their spells to devastating effect. When caught by surprise, they are vulnerable. The wizard's strength is her spells, everything else is secondary. She learns new spells as she experiments and grows in experience, and she can also learn them from other wizards. In addition, over time a wizard learns to manipulate her spells so they go farther, work better, or are improved in some other way. A wizard can call a familiar- a small, magical, animal companion that serves her. With a high Intelligence, wizards are capable of casting very high levels of spells.
Secondary Class:
Sorcerers are arcane spellcasters who manipulate magic energy with imagination and talent rather than studious discipline. They have no books, no mentors, no theories just raw power that they direct at will. Sorcerers know fewer spells than wizards do and acquire them more slowly, but they can cast individual spells more often and have no need to prepare their incantations ahead of time. Also unlike wizards, sorcerers cannot specialize in a school of magic. Since sorcerers gain their powers without undergoing the years of rigorous study that wizards go through, they have more time to learn fighting skills and are proficient with simple weapons. Charisma is very important for sorcerers; the higher their value in this ability, the higher the spell level they can cast.
Find out What Kind of Dungeons and Dragons Character Would You Be?, courtesy of Easydamus (e-mail)
Ability Scores:
Strength-13
Dexterity-14
Constitution-12
Intelligence-15
Wisdom-15
Charisma-13
Alignment:
True Neutral A true neutral character does what seems to be a good idea. He doesn't feel strongly one way or the other when it comes to good vs. evil or law vs. chaos. Most true neutral characters exhibit a lack of conviction or bias rather than a commitment to neutrality. Such a character thinks of good as better than evil after all, he would rather have good neighbors and rulers than evil ones. Still, he's not personally committed to upholding good in any abstract or universal way. Some true neutral characters, on the other hand, commit themselves philosophically to neutrality. They see good, evil, law, and chaos as prejudices and dangerous extremes. They advocate the middle way of neutrality as the best, most balanced road in the long run. True neutral is the best alignment you can be because it means you act naturally, without prejudice or compulsion. However, true neutral can be a dangerous alignment because it represents apathy, indifference, and a lack of conviction.
Race:
Half-Elves have the curiosity and ambition for their human parent and the refined senses and love of nature of their elven parent, although they are outsiders among both cultures. To humans, half-elves are paler, fairer and smoother-skinned than their human parents, but their actual skin tones and other details vary just as human features do. Half-elves tend to have green, elven eyes. They live to about 180.
Primary Class:
Wizards are arcane spellcasters who depend on intensive study to create their magic. To wizards, magic is not a talent but a difficult, rewarding art. When they are prepared for battle, wizards can use their spells to devastating effect. When caught by surprise, they are vulnerable. The wizard's strength is her spells, everything else is secondary. She learns new spells as she experiments and grows in experience, and she can also learn them from other wizards. In addition, over time a wizard learns to manipulate her spells so they go farther, work better, or are improved in some other way. A wizard can call a familiar- a small, magical, animal companion that serves her. With a high Intelligence, wizards are capable of casting very high levels of spells.
Secondary Class:
Sorcerers are arcane spellcasters who manipulate magic energy with imagination and talent rather than studious discipline. They have no books, no mentors, no theories just raw power that they direct at will. Sorcerers know fewer spells than wizards do and acquire them more slowly, but they can cast individual spells more often and have no need to prepare their incantations ahead of time. Also unlike wizards, sorcerers cannot specialize in a school of magic. Since sorcerers gain their powers without undergoing the years of rigorous study that wizards go through, they have more time to learn fighting skills and are proficient with simple weapons. Charisma is very important for sorcerers; the higher their value in this ability, the higher the spell level they can cast.
Find out What Kind of Dungeons and Dragons Character Would You Be?, courtesy of Easydamus (e-mail)
Button Vest Cont'd
Short day today, as I got started rather late.
Now to start on the back panel. Here is half of the back pattern and this time I am using a chalk pencil to mark on the fabric.
A picture of my trusty french curve. This tool helps me draw armseyes and neck holes.
Measuring tape and chalk pencil are being used to bring focus to the pattern on the fabric.
Here's my pinking shears. Instead of a straight cut, these scissors cut a scalloped edge that helps prevent unravelling.
Slowly cutting out the back pattern.
I've pinned the two halves of the back outer shell together.
I sewed the two halves together but I forgot to take a picture. It's easy enough though, just a single seam down the center back.
I'm using the iron to press the seam flat.
I run a zig zag stitch down the back of the fabric edge to also help prevent unraveling.
Repeat same process again. This time with the fabric of the liner.
Random detail shot. Here is where I would use the french curve to complete the neck line.
Both liner halves are cut out and pinned together.
That is it for now. Stay tuned for the next update!
Now to start on the back panel. Here is half of the back pattern and this time I am using a chalk pencil to mark on the fabric.
A picture of my trusty french curve. This tool helps me draw armseyes and neck holes.
Measuring tape and chalk pencil are being used to bring focus to the pattern on the fabric.
Here's my pinking shears. Instead of a straight cut, these scissors cut a scalloped edge that helps prevent unravelling.
Slowly cutting out the back pattern.
I've pinned the two halves of the back outer shell together.
I sewed the two halves together but I forgot to take a picture. It's easy enough though, just a single seam down the center back.
I'm using the iron to press the seam flat.
I run a zig zag stitch down the back of the fabric edge to also help prevent unraveling.
Repeat same process again. This time with the fabric of the liner.
Random detail shot. Here is where I would use the french curve to complete the neck line.
Both liner halves are cut out and pinned together.
That is it for now. Stay tuned for the next update!
Monday, March 17, 2008
Button Vest Misc. Update
Miscellaneous update:
There goes my spool of thread. Good thing I have a back up spool I bought from a sale at Jo-Ann's.
A completed shot of the front vest panel.
Here is the two halves together. I didn't take pictures of the construction of the other half because it was done in the same manner like the first half. Starting to look sharp!
A zoom on the pockets. If you couldn't tell, I'm happy with how they turned out!
Actual progress picture to come later in the day!
There goes my spool of thread. Good thing I have a back up spool I bought from a sale at Jo-Ann's.
A completed shot of the front vest panel.
Here is the two halves together. I didn't take pictures of the construction of the other half because it was done in the same manner like the first half. Starting to look sharp!
A zoom on the pockets. If you couldn't tell, I'm happy with how they turned out!
Actual progress picture to come later in the day!
Button Vest Addendum
Here's another update for my button vest.
Since I skipped taking pictures of tracing and cutting the outer shell, I took some shots of the process with the liner.
The pattern is laid out on the pre-shrunk
fabric. You can already see the outline of the other half of the front vest panel.
Here's a shot of my reliable fabric marker. Make sure you test any marks on a scrap corner of the fabric before actually marking on it.
The liner is cut out. You can see the seam allowance already are accounted for.
The liner and outer shell are pinned together. I made sure that the rigth sides facing inward.
Now I start sewing the two together.
I make sure that both the shell and the liner and taut so that the fabric doesn't bunch up and gather.
Almost done. I just need to sew the center facing together.
Since I didn't show it in the pictures I also made sure that I did NOT sew the bottom seams together. Not just yet anyways. I am going to turn the piece inside out so that the right sides are facing out.
Before I can turn the pieces inside out, I need to grade my seams and clip the curves in the arm holes so that they lie flat.
By doing this, I reduce the bulk under the seams.
The vest panel is turned inside out. Now the right sides are facing out and you can see the pocket. The fabric marker is included so the camera's macro setting can focus on something.
Bring out that trusty iron, and press the entire piece flat. I apply steam at the edges to ensure that that seam lies flat.
Repeat the same process with the liner.
Top stitch the pieces together. I ran a single stitch about 1/8 of an inch away from the edge. You can also see the that I have pinned the bottom seam together. Now that I have the panel how I want it, I can sew everything closed.
Progress is coming along smoothly! More updates to come.
Since I skipped taking pictures of tracing and cutting the outer shell, I took some shots of the process with the liner.
The pattern is laid out on the pre-shrunk
fabric. You can already see the outline of the other half of the front vest panel.
Here's a shot of my reliable fabric marker. Make sure you test any marks on a scrap corner of the fabric before actually marking on it.
The liner is cut out. You can see the seam allowance already are accounted for.
The liner and outer shell are pinned together. I made sure that the rigth sides facing inward.
Now I start sewing the two together.
I make sure that both the shell and the liner and taut so that the fabric doesn't bunch up and gather.
Almost done. I just need to sew the center facing together.
Since I didn't show it in the pictures I also made sure that I did NOT sew the bottom seams together. Not just yet anyways. I am going to turn the piece inside out so that the right sides are facing out.
Before I can turn the pieces inside out, I need to grade my seams and clip the curves in the arm holes so that they lie flat.
By doing this, I reduce the bulk under the seams.
The vest panel is turned inside out. Now the right sides are facing out and you can see the pocket. The fabric marker is included so the camera's macro setting can focus on something.
Bring out that trusty iron, and press the entire piece flat. I apply steam at the edges to ensure that that seam lies flat.
Repeat the same process with the liner.
Top stitch the pieces together. I ran a single stitch about 1/8 of an inch away from the edge. You can also see the that I have pinned the bottom seam together. Now that I have the panel how I want it, I can sew everything closed.
Progress is coming along smoothly! More updates to come.
Saturday, March 15, 2008
Button Vest (Work in Progress) Cont'd
Welcome to the next episode of this button vest... It seems that I got a little caught up in sewing the pocket so I missed taking a few picture of some of the intervening steps.
I cut out the pocket liners from the same fabric as my vest liner. There two sets of pocket liners, one for the top welt and one for the bottom welt. The pocket liners are sewn to their respective welts.
Here you can sew the pocket liners sewn on to their respective welts. They are laid open and pinned out of the way for the next step.
Not quite sure why I took a second shot of the pocket liners. From the looks of it, it looks like I forgot to turn the soft flash on in the first picture.
Same as above, zoom detail.
Apparently, I'm really bad at skipping steps. I forgot to take a picture of the top stitching around the welt. Sewing the top stitching will sew through a small part of the pocket liner (A 1/4 inch area around the welt). I was freaked out at first and thought I made a mistake but, this is supposed to happen.
The ends of the pocket are sewn together 1/2 about the edge of the fabric. A zig zag stitch is used on the end to prevent fraying.
Same as above.
Sewing the sides of the pocket shut. I start at the top and sew through all of the extra 1 inch allowance by the side of the pocket open and sew down until the end of the pocket.
A detailed shot.
The completed pocket.
An attempt to show the outside of the vest panel. It's unfocused so you cannot see the pocket detailing so well.
A shot of the pocket from the outside. You can still see the chalk outline of the pocket placement.
A rather blurry zoom. But you get the idea of how the completed pocket looks from the outside.
I'll work on taking pictures at each step... In the meantime, future updates to come!
I cut out the pocket liners from the same fabric as my vest liner. There two sets of pocket liners, one for the top welt and one for the bottom welt. The pocket liners are sewn to their respective welts.
Here you can sew the pocket liners sewn on to their respective welts. They are laid open and pinned out of the way for the next step.
Not quite sure why I took a second shot of the pocket liners. From the looks of it, it looks like I forgot to turn the soft flash on in the first picture.
Same as above, zoom detail.
Apparently, I'm really bad at skipping steps. I forgot to take a picture of the top stitching around the welt. Sewing the top stitching will sew through a small part of the pocket liner (A 1/4 inch area around the welt). I was freaked out at first and thought I made a mistake but, this is supposed to happen.
The ends of the pocket are sewn together 1/2 about the edge of the fabric. A zig zag stitch is used on the end to prevent fraying.
Same as above.
Sewing the sides of the pocket shut. I start at the top and sew through all of the extra 1 inch allowance by the side of the pocket open and sew down until the end of the pocket.
A detailed shot.
The completed pocket.
An attempt to show the outside of the vest panel. It's unfocused so you cannot see the pocket detailing so well.
A shot of the pocket from the outside. You can still see the chalk outline of the pocket placement.
A rather blurry zoom. But you get the idea of how the completed pocket looks from the outside.
I'll work on taking pictures at each step... In the meantime, future updates to come!
Friday, March 14, 2008
Button Vest (Work in Progress)
The following is a chronicle of my button vest. It varies from your standard vest in that it extends beyond the waist line down to the top of the thighs. Also to experiment with the aesthetics of the vest as a whole, it will be sewn as three separate parts, front left panel, front right panel, and back panel and be buttoned together.
I have skipped some of the boring parts, the pattern has already been traced on to the fabric and cut out.
Here you can see the outline of the vest plus seam allowance.
A zoomed in view where you can see the placement of the pockets.
Same as above, left panel.
The welts of the double welt pockets are pinned in place here.
Same as above, zoom detail.
Sewing the welt in place.
Same as above, zoom detail.
The welt has been pulled through to the other side of the fabric and is pinned in place.
All in all, the pocket is turning out well!
Thanks go to the web author of Savvy Seams for their double welt pocket tutorial!
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